"El Queso y El Vino Sabe a Beso"

If you’re a cheese lover, then Spain can easily satisfy your craving for a cheese with unmistakable expression of “terroir” of the D.O. (Dominación de Orígin) of the cheese based on the type of milk, land, and climate. Just like a wine can express “terroir” (how a wine tastes because of the combination of the grape, soil it’s grow in and the region’s weather) a cheese can too. Start to experiment with different styles of cheeses made from the milk of goats, sheep, and cows. Then try cheeses from the array of D.O.s that certifies their authenticity. Finally, pair them with a great Spanish wine and discover for yourself magic on your palette. If you already know the name of the cheese you will find an abbreviated list of cheeses most commonly found in the US.

If you want to try some pairings on your own, we love these stores for their authentic selection of Spanish gourmet items:

LEARN MORE!

Here you will find an abbreviated list of Spanish cheeses that can currently be found in the US.
Arzua Ulloa - Galicia – pasteurized cow’s milk

Known locally as Queixo do País, or country cheese, the most popular cheese in Galicia. Brought into the U.S. by Murray’s Cheese through exporter and Spanish cheese expert Enric Canut.

Aged over 60 days. A double cream style whole, pasteurized cow's milk cheese from near the Ulla River in Galacia, similar in taste and style to Tetilla. The lactic, marshmellowy paste has a mild flavor with the pronounced taste of milk and cream. Similar in appearance to a very young Torta del Casar, bound in a strip of cotton to hold its shape, Arzua Ulloa is an ideal starter on the cheese plate. It has a sweet lactic flavor that’s low in acidity and therefore very mild.

Garrotxa “La Bauma” – Cataluña - Pasteurized goat’s milk

An artisanal semi-hard cheese made by Tony Chueca in the foothills of the Pyrenees. A relative newcomer to the world of Spanish cheeses. Elephant-gray, velvety rind, with a moist and cakey interior. Mild, sweet, and lightly acidic; judiciously salted, buttery, and creamy, with aromas of hazelnuts and fresh goat’s milk. Looking old before its time, this elephant-gray rinded semi-firm is aged only 3 to 4 weeks when it reaches its semi-firm peak. (That rind is reminiscent of the volcanic ash in the soil that provides such unique pasturage.) This artisanal Garrotxa is exceptional, redolent of damp caves and tasting of wet wood-- spruce and pine, as though it were aged with bark. The interior is moist and cakey
with a looooonnnggg zinging finish.

Ibores – Extremadura - Raw goat’s milk

An artisanal cheese from the southwestern Spanish region of Extremadura; specifically from the mountainous zone known as Los Ibores, northeast of Cáceres. Made from the milk of the Mountain Verata and Retinta breeds of goat, Ibores may be rubbed with a mixture of olive oil and sweet pimentón (paprika) during a minimum aging of three months. A pimentón-free version, called "Capribor," has won the artisanal goat cheese category of the Spanish Cheese Awards in 1995, 1999, 2001, and 2002.

Grazalema – Cadiz – Sheep and Goat Pasteurized Milk
Nicknamed "Grandaddy," though aged for only 4 months. A blend of pasteurized sheep and goat milk; the latter lends a distinct sweetness that contributes to the strong fruit flavors. At first there are hints of ripe pears, but in the mouth and on the finish, heavy, sweet nectarines. With no acidity, the rich, buttery citrus is reminiscent of English flavored chocolates ala Whack-an-Orange.

Pata de Mulo – Castilla y Leon – Raw Sheep Milk
The cylindrical shape recalls the better known, but relatively new, cheese of Leon:Queso del Tietar (Monte Enebro). Pata de Mulo, meaning leg of the mule, is slowly being resurrected as a traditional, raw sheep milk cheese. Aged for 3-4 months, the paste is firm, but beautifully supple with butterfat. The taste is gentle, almost sweet, with a round, fruity linger.

De la Serena – Extremadura - Sheeps Milk
D.O. is deep in Extremadura, on the outskirts of the noble city of Cáceres this unique cheese has been made for centuries. La Serena is made from the milk of Merino sheep that graze on the forbidding slate and granite soil. Thistle rennet is added to the raw ewe's milk in order to give the cheese a particular piquant taste. Each buttery, full-flavored saucer shaped cheese is aged 3-4 months and becomes progressively creamier as it ripens within its warm brown crust. This unusual specimen is in season during the winter months, when aging conditions were traditionally humid and cool; the flavor is delicate: lactic, floral qualities with in the unctuous paste. Good spooned from it top, or spread on toasted bread with a glass of young Albariño wine from Galicia, or a solid red.

Idiazabal – Navarra – Raw Sheep Milk
A D.O. (Denominación de Orígen) cheese, Idiazabal is protected by government standards ensuring quality and specifying regional production.
Made only with the raw milk of the Laxta and Carranza sheep, Idiazabal is made both smoked and unsmoked, though the unsmoked variety is never seen in the
United States. Murray’s will be importing it for the first time in November of 2003. Made by dozens of tiny producers, unsmoked Idiazabal is traditionally made with 100% lamb rennet, imparting a meaty, gamy flavor to the cheese. The old-timers call it "hot." The wheels are aged anywhere from two to ten months. Compact and slightly piquant, this cheese has assertive smoky aroma and flavor with a pleasant butteriness on the finish. Ubiquitous in northern Spain as a queso de tapeo (cheese served as a tapa) in cider bars and txacoliterías (bars that feature the light, spritzy white wine, Txacoli).

Roncal - Navarra – Raw Sheep’s Milk
A raw sheep’s milk cheese made in the Roncal valley of Navarre Robust; slightly piquant, not at all salty, very buttery. New developments in cheesemaking technology have undoubtedly smoothed out some of the rough edges this potent, buttery, and savory cheese once possessed.
 

D.O.s for Cheeses*
The fine cheeses of Spain and their unique qualities are protected by each D.O. – the Dominación de Orígen symbol that certifies their authenticity. The D.O.s for Spanish cheese, carefully defined by geographic region, dictate the ingredients, production techniques, aging conditions and other aspects of the manufacturing and aging processes. All products protected by a D.O. must be accompanied by the logo as proof of origin, with its unique stamped number.

Tetilla – creamy and mild
Mahon – firm and sharp
Manchego – tangy sheep’s milk cheese
Majorero – buttery goat’s milk cheese
Zamorano – sharp and rich
Murcia al Vino – mild and creamy
Cabrales – one of the world’s great blues
Idiazabal – smooth and smoky
Roncal – complex, buttery flavors
De la Serena – buttery, fresh, speadable
Queso Ibores – semi-soft goat’s milk cheese

Map of Goat Cheese D.O.s

Types of Cheeses*

Here you will find a list of cheeses by type of milk that produces their unique flavor.

Sheep’s milk cheeses
 Manchego
o From Quixote’s La Mancha comes Spain’s best-known cheese. Manchega sheep grazing in Albacete, Ciudad Real, Cuenca and Toledo provide milk for this slightly piquant cheese. Dry on the palate with a fine, lingering aftertaste.
 Roncal
o Well-developed, aromatic Roncal is made only with the milk from the Rasa and Lacha flocks of the Roncal Valley in Navarra. Passed from father to son, its traditional production methods are jealously guarded family secrets.
 Zamorano
o This intensely flavorful Castilian cheese is made from the milk of the Churra and Castellana sheep indigenous to the region of Zamora. Aged a minimum of 100 days, it has a slightlyt grainy texture and rich, salty bite.

Goat’s milk cheeses
 Majorero
o Savory Majorero from remote Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands is little known outside a small circle of cheese cognoscenti. Acidic, a little piquant and buttery, it’s often served as a dessert with guava paste or quince jelly.
 Murcia al vino
o Cured cheese made from the mik of the native Murcia breed, said to be the best milk-producing goat in the country. Murcia al Vino is smooth, slightly acid and slaty with a distinctive violet rind from washing in red wine.

Cow’s milk cheeses
 Mahon
o Massaged with olive oil and pimentón to keep it soft and fragrant, this buttery, sharp and nutty cheese from the Balearic isle of Menorca is tremendously versatile.
 Tetilla
o Milky, buttery, slightly sharp and mildly salty, this Galician dream melts beautifully and is instantly recognizable for its distinctive “kiss” shape.
 Alt Urgell
o Made with pasteurized cow’s milk, this cheese has a tender creamy consistency. Its aroma is sweet and penetrating with mild flavor and fruity tones.
 Cantabria
o Also known as Queso de Nata, is a perfect description of the sensory qualityies of this cheese. It is very soft and melting on the tongue, leaving smooth flavors of fresh cream but with a slight tartness and tang.

Blue cheese
 Cabrales (cow, sheep and goat’s milk)
o A complex, intense, piquant and naturally blue-veined masterpiece, this is easily one of the world’s most striking cheeses. An artful blend of milks, it is ripened in the caves of mountainous eastern Asturias.

Some of our favorite cheese and wine pairings**

Here you will find some wine and cheese pairings we have conducted in the past at some of our favorite locals in NYC: Brite Bar, Bubble Lounge, Sortie and Xicala.

Arzua Ulloa de Galicia – pasteurized cow’s milk - Galicia
Pairs well with young wines of Galicia and its voluptuous texture is neatly sliced by a swallow of effervescent Cava.

Try…
1 – Crisp, aromatic white from Ribeiro or Rias Baixas made with Treixadura, Godello, Albariño, Albilla, Loureiro, Caiño y Torrontés.

2 - Refreshing Rose Cava made with Pinot Noir

3 – Citrus and nutty Gran Reserva Cava made with the trilogy of grapes traditionally found in Cava: Xarel-lo, Macabeo, Parellada

Garrotxa “La Bauma” – Cataluña - Pasteurized goat’s milk
This artisanal Garrotxa is exceptional, redolent of damp caves and tasting of wet wood-- spruce and pine, as though it were aged with bark. The interior is moist and cakey
with a looooonnnggg zinging finish.

Try…
1 – Monte Real, a white Rioja made from Viura, Malvasia blend, aged slightly.
Tart, zingy cheese pairing up with the light crisp slightly aged white Rioja.

2 – Puerta del Sol made from Malvar, an indigenous grape of Vinos de Madrid, aged 4 months in 85% American oak, 15% French oak barrels.
Floral and crisp wine paired with tart and zingy cheese.

Ibores - DO: Extremadura - Raw goat’s milk
Its paste is smooth and dense, but melting on the palate, with delicate, herbaceous and gently sour undertones, with a long, slow burn.

Try…
1 - Florally sweet Viña Chozo Rosado made from 100% Tempranillo with herbaceous Ibores.

2 - Bright fresh berries from Viña Casta by Bodegas Torres from Penedes made with 100% Garnacha is lovely with Ibores.

Grazalema – DO Cadiz – Sheep and Goat Pasteurized Milk
At first there are hints of ripe pears, but in the mouth and on the finish, heavy, sweet nectarines. With no acidity, the rich, buttery citrus is reminiscent of English flavored chocolates ala Whack-an-Orange.

Try…
La Vendimia, 2002, Bodegas Alvaro Palacios from Rioja made from 100% Tempranillo.
Sweet, fruit, buttery and citrus paired with earthy, fruit forward Tempranillo - a typical Rioja, exemplifying the "terroir" of Spain's wines.

Pata de Mulo – Castilla y Leon – Raw Sheep Milk
Aged for 3-4 months, the paste is firm, but beautifully supple with butterfat. The taste is gentle, almost sweet, with a round, fruity linger.

Try…
1 - Protos, Roble, 2002, from Ribera del Duero made with 100% Tempranillo and aged just 4 months in American oak.
Sweet round, fruity linger goes well with the round, buttery, and soft tannins in the aged wine.

2 - Señorio de Sarria #5, from Navarra, made with Garnacha and Cariñena
Floral rosado goes nicely with supple, sweet Pata de Mulo

Idiazabal – DO Navarra – Raw Sheep Milk
The wheels are aged anywhere from two to ten months. Compact and slightly piquant, this cheese has assertive smoky aroma and flavor with a pleasant butteriness on the finish. Ubiquitous in northern Spain as a queso de tapeo (cheese served as a tapa) in cider bars and txacoliterías (bars that feature the light, spritzy white wine, Txacoli).

Try…
1 – Clos del Mas, ’02 from Priorat made from Garnacha and Cariñena

Spicy fruit from Priorat contrasting nicely with a smoky Idiazábal.

2 - Grego Roble 2003 from Vinos de Madrid made from 75% Tempranillo and 25% Syrah.

The supple, fruit forwardness of Grego is a nice contrast with the smokey Idiazábal.

De la Serena – sheeps milk cheese from Extremadura
This unusual specimen is in season during the winter months, when aging conditions were traditionally humid and cool; the flavor is delicate: lactic, floral qualities with in the unctuous paste. Good spooned from it top, or spread on toasted bread with a glass of young Albariño wine from Galicia, or a solid red.

Try…
Castillo de Urtau(Joven) from Ribera del Duero made from 100% Tempranillo

Earthy fruit paired with floral and fruity La Serena.

Roncal - Navarra – Raw Sheep’s Milk
A raw sheep’s milk cheese made in the Roncal valley of Navarre Robust; slightly piquant, not at all salty, very buttery. New developments in cheesemaking technology have undoubtedly smoothed out some of the rough edges this potent, buttery, and savory cheese once possessed.

Try…
Puerta del Sol Varietals 2000 from Vinos de Madrid made from a coupage of Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 30%, Tempranillo 10 and aged 115 days in American oak barrels.

This full-bodied red is a great match for this slightly piquant cheese.

Wine and Cheese Pairings:
   June Pairings - PDF document

   July Pairings - PDF document

Where to find Spanish Cheeses in NYC:

• Murray’s Cheese Shoppe, 257 Bleecker Street
• Fairway Market, 2127 Broadway or 2328 12th Avenue

**I’d like to thank and acknowledge Liz Thorpe of Murray’s Cheese (www.murrayscheese.com) and Adrian Murcia of Chanterelle Restaurant (www.chanterellenyc.com) their collaboration, limitless expertise and passion for cheese!

*Other sources: Cheese From Spain, www.cheesefromspain.com, and Spain Gourmetour 2000